Saturday, November 27, 2010

Back from the Far Side

Radio silence since the last posting was unavoidable during the transit phase from LA to Wellington.  But now back to almost normal service. 

Last day in LA was packed full of clichés.  Trip to see the HOLLYWOOD sign took us through downtown Hollywood and BelAir and of course we gawped at the mansions on the way.  Then down the Sunset Strip and Sunset Boulevard to Pacific Highway 1 which took us in to Venice Beach.  Disappointingly no torsoes to ogle at Muscle Beach, so late lunch at a very cool and reasonable fish bar in Santa Monica before heading out to the airport fully loaded with new golf kit and baggage carefully weighed to avoid check in hitches.

It was a long long flight to Auckland but we landed feeling pretty good and more than a little excited. The plane was late landing due to late take off and headwinds but thanks to user friendly super efficient and secure NZ immigration (Obama take note and learn) we just made our connection to Wellington. Picked up the hire car and headed for our house in Waikanae Beach - a lovely drive into beautiful Wellington - wow it really is summer - mountains and sun glistening on water everywhere - and the scenery was even better than we remembered.

What can we say. Our house is very modest in size but beautifully kept and decorated by Sue and David the previous owners who now live round the corner with their 3 kids in a bigger house. Sue greets us with the keys and gives us the guided tour - it is just as we remembered it but better. In fact it’s just perfect for us. We have nothing - the house is completely empty. Fast forward 4 days - we are members of the golf club, we have a bed and two more to be delivered next week, even plates, saucepans, knifes and forks, sheets and towels and a car - we have all we need and who cares if we are sitting on the floor until the settee arrives. This is fantastic - we are 300 metres from the beach and that’s where we spent this afternoon. We walk or run on it every day and we love it.

Of course the best was seeing Pat and Olenka. They came down on Tuesday evening when we arrived and we had fun toasting the house in champagne given to us by Sue and David and then off to the local beach bistro where Pat demolished a T-bone the size of a house. They are both in great form - Pat is in his first week as a cub journalist for the Wanganui Chronicle - 4 articles published with his byline - and Olenka is Ms Bachelor of Teaching straight As student - what more can you want?

Actually, since you ask - golf.  And that too is sublime.  We’ve started slowly and badly as we are both acclimatising to new clubs and strange course.  But progress is steady and Nick might be ready for the Mid-week men on Tuesday morning......

We’ll let you know how he gets on.

Oh and by the way we have wonderful neighbours. They bring us a home made flower arrangement, they lend us a table and chairs until ours arrive, and they are taking us to a jazz concert in a decommissioned cathedral in Wellington next Friday - compare and contrast with Chassors where the lady next door can’t even make eye contact - it’s partly the luck of the draw but it’s also NZ - it’s so open, optimistic and friendly you just wouldn’t believe it - lush, really lush, and so much occurring!!

Sunday, November 21, 2010

The Glorious Getty Center

What to say about The Getty Center?  Simply awesome.

From the moment you board the tram that glides up the mountain from the parking lot, it’s clear that this is an extraordinary place.  And it is the place itself that impresses you even more than the art that it houses.  The complex is made up of several “pavilions” linked by beautiful outdoor marble walkways and terraces and surrounded by stunningly designed gardens.  When we visited, the weather was dreadful - the surrounding hills were covered in cloud and it was raining hard.  Even in those conditions it was a wonderful place to spend the day and that’s what we did - arriving at opening time and leaving at 3.30 after a superb lunch in the restaurant which has the best views in LA. 

From the sublime to the intolerable.  Nick was so thrilled with his new jeans (which actually fit him properly), that we decided to buy a second pair.  So on the way back to the hotel we made a detour to a huge shopping mall in Beverly Hills.  Big mistake.  The notice on the way in to the car park announced 3 hours free parking, and it was soon clear why - it would probably take you 2.5 hours to actually get a parking place.  Even the Buick Thingummy couldn’t find one and after half an hour of pointless cruising underground, we decided that sanity is more important than casual wear and left. 

Supper was a small bowl of soup, a couple of dim sums and a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc that turned out be from New Zealand from where you will next hear from us. The Chinese theme continued afterwards with the Hong Kong Open on the Golf Channel and it was brilliant viewing on our TV which is the size of a bed.  So that was our final indulgence of a brilliant day.

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Retail therapy

On my early morning jog in the smog yesterday I saw 2 cool bumper stickers -
"The more you know, the less you need" and "The best things in life aren't things".  So with those noble sentiments in mind we dedicated our day to shopping.  It was tough but someone had to do it, and we volunteered.  We headed for golf heaven and left 3 hours later with about 20kg of brand new shiny sticks and balls so that we can hit the fairways in NZ and France without having to carry all the kit back and forwards.  On to Santa Monica (don't you love the name) for "essential" electronics in the Apple store.  I can hardly believe I'm writing this but we bought NOTHING, having taken the ridiculously mature view that we don't need an Ipad after all.  We consoled ourselves by buying jeans that actually fit (not in the Apple store you understand).  All in all a pretty satisfying result.

We learnt 2 important lessons yesterday:

1. When "making change" for a parking meter,  take care that you receive the coin equivalent to the notes you're trying to change - N paid 2 dollars for 4 quarters - not a good deal.
2. The cheapest wine in the cooler is cheap for a reason.

Friday, November 19, 2010

Palm Springs and Riverside

When we successfully passed the photo/fingerprint process in LAX Immigration Hall, the overworked official that admitted us asked if we'd be at the "Royal Wedding" next year.  He clearly appreciated our generally couth attitude and classy appearance.  And so we headed off for our day in the desert with me at the wheel looking in our view pretty much the part.

We gunned the big shiny Buick Thingummy onto the LA Freeway and headed for the desert.  Great drive, dramatic mountainous landscape and nothing like anywhere we're used to in Europe.  In just  just a couple of hours we were in Palm Springs, a resort town for the rich and famous in the 1930's, now morphed into a holiday and/or retirement destination. We loved it.  Weather was warm and dry and good for wandering aimlessly around the (somewhat cheesy) shops.  But the highlight was a visit to Indian Canyons in the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation.  A great hiking destination, but we didn't have time or the right footwear and anyway the warning signs about the rattlesnakes made N feel a tad uneasy.  We checked out the world's largest palm tree oasis and were on our way to the waterfalls on the edge of the reserve when we were flagged down by a couple of hikers who'd lost their way.  Of course the first rule of driving in the States is NOT TO STOP FOR HITCHIKERS.  But hell, dusk was falling and and I couldn't face the sleepless nights worrying about whether they ended up as a pile of bleached bones on the side of the track, so we picked them up and got them back to their car.  All warm inside from our good deed, we had to leave the reserve without really exploring it properly - so Palm Springs be afraid, be very afraid - we will be back!  (But with rattleproof walking shoes)

On to Riverside and arriving chez Geerlings-Leapman, we kinda thought how weird to visit the children of friends of Nick's parents whom we don't know. What do we have in common apart from Facebook and a surname (and funnily enough, a shared experience of living in Leytonstone)?  But it was a great evening, with wonderful home made food and some very distinguished wine.  PLUS the added bonus of a personal tour of the artist's studio and review of his work in progress.  We were thrilled to connect with this family and and we found lots to talk about.  Geerlings-Leapman family, be afraid, be very afraid - we will be back!

Strictly nonsense

Wide awake at 4.00 a.m. yesterday - I was impressed by a headlining item on the TV news : when Sarah Palin's daughter - Bristol - was voted through to the final of "Dancing with the Stars" (the US version of the often imitated never bettered "Strictly Come Dancing"), one enraged viewer took his shotgun out and blasted his TV set.   It's reassuring to know that our obsessions are so global, but heaven help us if Widders gets much further.  Samsung shares sure to rise I guess, so good for one of the Leapmans at least.

So come on Steve n Linds - spill the beans, did Steve finally get that air gun and what really happened to the TV?

Thursday, November 18, 2010

Lagged in LA

After weeks of preparation, we're finally on the way to our winter quarters.   Last few days in the Charente were manic - case of biting off more than we could chew.   So instead of taking time to enjoy the glorious autumn colours and the last few golf moments of the season, we were madly trying to clear the  laughingly called kitchen so that it is ready for destruction and rebuild while we're away.  All we own in the way of kitchenware is now stacked in the sitting room so the house looks like the £1 Shop winter sale.  To add to the stress Jax committed to run the 10k race on the Marathon du Cognac weekend while her bro ran the half-marathon.  Nevertheless, by Tuesday 16th November we were ready for the off thanks to massive efforts by Nick and Fin.  BIG THANKS Fin.....

First stop - Oxford, England.  The shock of rush hour traffic on the M25 on a foggy November evening was huge after spending the last few months practically owning the roads in SW France.  Gatwick to Oxford was a bumper to bumper crawl.  But hooray for SatNav - we arrived at friends - Shaun and Sarah - in time for delicious New Zealand Sav. followed by scrummy curry - both these treats are much missed as neither are available in France.  Great night sleep and then off after breakfast.  Sarah and Shaun are brilliant B and B hosts - highly recommended.

Morning coffee in Hazlemere - just enough time to drop in to see Nick's Uncle Jack and Auntie Ann near High Wycombe.  Exactly 60 minutes to catch up on news from both sides.  Nick and Jack both contenders for "Talking for as long as possible without drawing a breath" prize, so much was said/heard and mission accomplished exactly on schedule.   Jack and Ann are both in great form and it was a joy to see them.

On to Heathrow and a further opportunity to marvel at the sheer volume of traffic there is in SE England.  Impressed at efficiency of car-hire return which meant we checked in with heaps of time to spare - a first for us and an opportunity to check out "fine" dining in Terminal 1.  Least said soonest mended.  Then a happy half hour in WH Smith writing down book titles that may or not be available in Kindle so that we can order our reading material for the trip.  And then finally on board NZ1 bound for LA.  Not exactly sure where 11 hours went to, but they passed and we survived and managed to eat, drink, read and watch really enjoyable trashy films and American sitcoms in relative comfort before landing one hour early in LA.  Then the real American experience started.  We lost all the advantage of our one hour head start in the immigration hall where we queued for at least 90 minutes to have our photos and fingerprints taken.  Plenty of time to ponder on how this could all be done differently.  Not sure exactly but there must be a way.  At any rate, we were finally released and thrilled to be introduced to the rental car that will be our best friend for the next few days.  It is a Buick Thingummy and is exceedingly shiny.  Sumptuous interior and plenty of pretty lights on the dashboard.  Nick immediately took control and only 30 minutes after switching it on, he'd fully mastered the demister and windscreen wipers and was able to see enough to sweep out into the LA evening traffic (and no it wasn't raining).  SatNav again worked its magic and arrival at the Crowne Plaza Beverly Hills was simple and stress free.  Checked in to our room - the major distinguishing feature of which is the TV which is about as big as our bed, and then late dinner in the hotel as too lagged and light headed to venture further.  Our charming waiter Adel is a Coptic Christian from Egypt and we pretty much know his life history now.

So to conclude our first entry - we're here, tired but very happy and excited at the prospect of the days and weeks to come.  A few hours sleep before heading out into the desert tomorrow - 73 degrees and sunny - yippee.